Vipvnnthe home workshop: small repairs without risk

An independent guide to minor household repairs. It is not a tradesperson service or a shop and is not connected with the former website on this domain. Leave any work involving gas or electrical wiring to professionals.

Practical

Practical articles

The first article in this section deals with the job almost every home workshop starts with: putting up a shelf. It looks simple, but this is exactly where things most often go wrong: the drill hits a cable or pipe, the wall plug won't hold, the shelf ends up crooked. Work through the whole process and the shelf will stay put while the wall stays intact.

An extra half hour spent marking out and checking the wall is always cheaper than one bad hole — let alone a hole through a cable.

— Editor's view

What to prepare in advance

  • The shelf and its fixings, plus the manufacturer's instructions if there are any: they state how much weight the shelf is designed to take.
  • A drill and a bit suited to your wall material, plus wall plugs and screws of the right size.
  • A spirit level, a tape measure and a pencil for marking out.
  • Safety goggles and, if you are drilling overhead, a stable stepladder as well.
  • A vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth to clear dust from the hole and the floor straight away.

  1. Choose the spot and assess the wall

    Decide where the shelf will go and think about what might run through the wall nearby. Avoid drilling directly above or below sockets and switches, or along imaginary lines between them: cables are often routed that way, though there is no guarantee. Check whether there are heating or water pipes close by.

    Hypothetical example: the plan was to hang the shelf directly above the socket by a desk. After some thought, it was moved to one side, away from the line a cable might follow.

  2. Check what is hidden in the wall

    If you have a wiring diagram or paperwork from earlier renovation work, look at it. A cable detector helps, but it cannot give you complete certainty. If doubts remain, choose another spot or ask an electrician.

    Hypothetical example: the detector gives an uncertain signal at the chosen spot. The shelf is moved to a nearby section of wall with no signal, and only then does marking out begin.

  3. Identify the wall material

    The material determines which drill bit and wall plug you need. Concrete and brick are drilled with a masonry bit, while plasterboard needs special cavity fixings. A test hole with a thin bit in an inconspicuous spot helps: judge by the colour of the dust and how hard the bit has to work.

    Hypothetical example: grey dust comes out of the test hole and the bit goes in with difficulty. The wall is concrete, so a wall plug for dense material is chosen.

  4. Mark out with a spirit level

    Hold the shelf or its brackets against the wall, level them and mark the points in pencil. Check the distance between the marks with a tape measure against the shelf's fixings. Mark each point again with a small cross so the bit does not slip.

    Hypothetical example: after marking out, the level shows a slight tilt. One mark is corrected before drilling, not afterwards when the holes are already in the wall.

  5. Drill the holes

    Put on your safety goggles. Hold the drill straight, at right angles to the wall, start at low speed and then increase it. The hole should be slightly deeper than the wall plug is long; many people mark the depth on the bit with a strip of masking tape.

    Hypothetical example: the bit starts to skid downwards on smooth tiles. Work stops, masking tape is stuck over the mark and drilling continues at low speed.

  6. Clear the dust and insert the wall plugs

    Dust left in the hole makes the fixing less secure, so blow it out or remove it with a vacuum cleaner. The wall plug should fit snugly; if needed, tap it in gently with a hammer until it sits flush with the wall.

    Hypothetical example: the wall plug spins loosely in the hole. The hole has come out too wide, so a larger fixing is used, set slightly away from the original point.

  7. Fix the shelf and test the load

    Drive in the screws without overtightening, hang the shelf and check it again with the level. Load it gradually and do not exceed what the shelf and fixing instructions allow. Place heavy items closer to the wall.

    Hypothetical example: once fitted, the shelf is pressed lightly from above by hand. It doesn't move, and only then do the books go on — not the whole box at once.

Common mistakes

  • Drilling above a socket, below a switch or on the line between them without thinking about hidden cables.
  • Grabbing the first wall plug to hand without considering the wall material and the weight of the shelf.
  • Working without safety goggles, especially when drilling overhead.
  • Marking out by eye without a level and then correcting the tilt with new holes.
  • Inserting a wall plug into a hole full of dust, which weakens the fixing.
  • Standing on a wobbly stool instead of a stable stepladder.

Other options

  • For light frames and small shelves in a rented home where drilling is not allowed, no-drill hanging systems can work; check how much weight they are rated for.
  • If the wall is plasterboard and the shelf is heavy, look for a spot over the stud frame or have it fitted by someone experienced with that kind of wall.
  • If cables or pipes definitely run nearby, use a freestanding shelving unit instead: it needs no holes and is easy to move.

Check yourself

  • The spot is away from sockets, switches and pipes
  • The wall has been checked and any doubts about wiring resolved
  • The wall material is identified and the right bit and plug chosen
  • Marking out is levelled and checked with a tape measure
  • Safety goggles are on and the stepladder is stable
  • Dust has been cleared from the holes
  • The shelf is fixed and checked with a level
  • The load does not exceed the manufacturer's recommendations

Article catalogue for English-speaking readers

This catalogue will gather standalone articles on small home repairs written specifically for the English version of the guide: tools, fixings, doors, taps and furniture. They take into account the homes most English-speaking readers live in — plasterboard and plaster walls, timber-framed houses, older brick terraces and the plumbing found in them.

What the editors are working on

  • Putting up a curtain pole or blind on plasterboard or old plaster so it stays put.
  • Filling holes and cracks in walls before repainting, including after taking down shelves.
  • Re-sealing a bath or shower tray: when to do it and how to remove the old silicone.
  • A dripping tap: what you can safely do yourself once the water is turned off.
  • Sticking doors, loose handles and wobbly chairs: quick fixes with basic tools.

Editorial rules

  • Articles in this catalogue are written separately for each language version and are not translations.
  • Some articles link to third-party websites, including gaming services; we do not control their content, prices or terms.
  • We do not take repair orders or sell tools and do not publish tradesperson rankings, prices or reviews.
  • Questions

    Short answers about tools and fixings, taps, doors and furniture, and staying safe while you work.

  • Reference

    Workshop glossary: wall plug, self-tapping screw, anchor, wood screw, bit, spirit level, stepladder, stopcock, PPE.

  • Collections

    Reading routes: your first flat, a leak-free bathroom and DIY together with a teenager.

Sources

  • Official home safety guidance from emergency services
  • Tool manufacturers' instructions

The advice in this guide describes the general approach as of the date the article was prepared. Every home has its own walls, plumbing and furniture, and every tool and fixing comes with its own instructions: where they differ from our text, follow the instructions.